The Journal · Archive
Scotland
Every entry filed here, newest first: the places, the meals, and the small mishaps that go with them.
All entries
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A Quiet Harbour on the NC500: An Overnight at Latheronwheel
Finding a quiet harbour to overnight on the NC500: Latheronwheel, on the Caithness coast, where fifty fishing boats once worked and now it is…
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Two Rainy Weeks in Orkney: Standing Stones, Native Beasts, and the Churchill Barriers
It rained at some point every single day for two weeks in Orkney, and it never once mattered. The people, the livestock, and a…
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Orkney Beach Walks: The Quiet Luxury of Living This Way
Long, empty Orkney beaches walked at the pace of the tide, and why living in a van, rather than holidaying in one, is what…
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Meeting the Locals on Orkney, Even When the Locals Are Cattle
Parked by the old ferry port on Orkney’s Mainland, the locals who came to say hello were a herd of cattle across the road:…
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Tides at Philorth: Standing Proof We Live on a Spinning Ball
At Philorth Beach near Fraserburgh, the tide is quiet proof that we live on a spinning ball in space, all that water lifted twice…
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Beach Walks at Findhorn: One of Our Favourite Places in the UK
Findhorn Beach on the North Sea is one of our favourite places in the whole UK: miles of near-empty sand, a bright row of…
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James Watt Dock, Greenock: An Unexpectedly Wonderful Place to Wake Up on the Water
James Watt Dock in Greenock turned out to be one of the loveliest places we have parked all year, a historic Victorian marina on…
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Snow, a Castle, and the Luck of the Road
A snow squall cleared at exactly the right moment and gave us the castle to ourselves, blanketed and untouched, before the tour buses arrived.…